Komorebidolls

Q: What materials do you use? How many layers of sealant? What brushes? etc

A: There’s actually a full list of brands here. The number of sealant layers is determined by the upper limit of the specific brand. Do not listen to random advice from people online for this: follow the manufacturer directions.

Q: What is Curing and why are you always doing it?

A: Curing is a chemical reaction that actually changes the properties of certain wet media! It’s cool stuff. Basically just because something is dry doesn’t mean it’s cured. Think about traditional manicures: nails can be touch dry in 20 minutes but need hours to really cure. All acrylic based media takes up to two full weeks to actually cure. Compatible acrylic media will bond to itself and each other while curing. Done properly, this means everything ultimately becomes one solid layer. The same goes for enamels, etc. All of this must of course be applied properly and without introducing any moisture or temp changes at critical moments to get those benefits. I’m extremely particular about all of this for my process. Not everyone is, and that’s fine.

Q: Will you teach me to do a faceup?

A: I genuinely do not have any beginner or intermediate-friendly processes I can translate to teaching right now. It would take months to develop something teachable, so the answer is no for the moment, sorry!

Q: Are there dolls you won’t paint?

A: I don’t paint cosplay for IPs that don’t embrace cosplay art, I don’t paint recasts, and I don’t paint hentai heads.

Q: Can you verify the authenticity of a doll for me?

A: Maybe if it’s something I paint a lot (Soom, Volks DoD, etc). This isn’t a general service I offer though. Please be careful in your buying. If you cannot verify provenance, don’t buy it.

Q: How should I protect your faceups and my doll?

A: It’s more a matter of what you shouldn’t do. Keep any touching to an absolute minimum. I know it’s boring, but this is real. I can tell immediately if someone has touched even a bare head with bare hands. Use cheap cotton inspection gloves for touching painted surfaces. I leave the back of the neck/head as a safe area for touching on dolls I paint as well. Other than that: store your doll securely where they won’t be exposed to constant UV, heat sources, moisture, or be at risk of falling. Store without wigs or clothes to prevent staining. Do not get your doll wet. Silicone wig caps are not protective and can actually stain dolls as well. Easy stuff: it’s really the same as any other original art. If you avoid the major sources of damage, the doll and its faceup will outlive you.

Q: Why won’t you recommend a specific brand or tell me exactly which sealant you recommend, etc?

A: I don’t advertise for free for anybody. And the brands I’d accept even a paid sponsorship from make a very short list. On the whole, as long as you’re using supplies from good manufacturers and you’re using them correctly, it’s all fine.

Q: Will you offer an express faceup option?

A: No, for many reasons. 1. Speeding through the faceup process is one of the reasons some faceups crack. 2. I have arthritis in my hands, and there’s only so fast I can paint. 3. I work like a traditional portrait artist. The magic translucence you see in person is the result of a proprietary process that takes a lot more time than conventional doll blushing.